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Paris, s'er. D — Eppley, R. Temperature and phytoplankton growth in the sea. Finenko, Z. Effect of inorganic phosphorus on the growth rate of diatoms. Fournier, R. Some implications of nutrient enrichment on different temporal stages of a phytoplankton community. Chesapeake Sci. Gieskes, W. The phytoplankton spring bloom in Dutch coastal waters of the North Sea.
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Sea Res. Goldman, J. Identification of nitrogen as a growthlimiting nutrient in waste waters and coastal marine waters through continuous culture algal assays. A kinetic approach to the effect of temperature on algal growth. Grall, J. Healey, F. Physiological indicators of nutrient deficiency in algae.
Service, techn. Hitchcock, G. The importance of light in the initiation of the — winter-spring diatom bloom in Narragansett Bay. Holm-Hansen, O. The measurement of adenosine triphosphate in the ocean and its ecological significance. Kiefer, D. A steady-state model of light, temperature, and carbon-limited growth of phytoplankton. In: Canale, R. Modeling Biochemical Processes in Aquatic Ecosystems, pp.
Ann Arbor Sci. He wanted to learn to make easy dishes he could prepare ahead of time to serve when friends came for supper at his dacha. Top of his list was … beef stroganoff. I found the idea of teaching beef stroganoff to a Russian to be rather fanciful, so I suggested poulet bonne femme , an earthy dish of chicken, bacon, mushrooms and onion that, like stroganoff, is finished with cream. Reader, he liked it. And found it surprisingly simple to make. We chopped for about five minutes, then got things going on the stove. While the chicken was cooking, we made some rice.
Within half an hour, the food was ready to bring to the table. Anecdotally, the term can carry a slur when applied to a woman in general parlance. Best to avoid it outside the kitchen. To date, there is only one other bonne femme recipe on this site: omelette bonne femme , an omelet with bacon and potatoes. But bonne femme dishes abound in France, from filets de sole bonne femme sole in a mushroom cream sauce to lapin bonne femme rabbit stewed with mushrooms and bacon and even laitue bonne femme hearts of Boston lettuce cooked with bacon and onion.
The other day a friend brought me a humble present — a jar of anchovies. But not just any anchovies. They were from Collioure, a picturesque fishing port on the French Mediterranean coast, which by some accounts produces the best anchovies in the world. I decided to try them out in a tangy salad of potatoes and black olives, set on a bed of baby spinach leaves, with mellow eggs on the side. The combination proved to be a knock-out.
Collioure, a small town just north of the Spanish border, is a popular tourist destination. It is perhaps best known today for the artists who flocked there a century ago, among them Matisse, Braque, Picasso and Dali, drawn by the light. But well before the artists came, the town was known for its anchovies: the tiny fish, found in abundance off the coast, have been netted and salted by local fishermen since the Middle Ages.
So I decided to improvise. Anchovies marry supremely well with potatoes, which soften the salty tang. In this salad, the potatoes are bathed in a sauce of lemon juice, olive oil and crushed coriander. Anchovies and olives are added to the mixture, and the baby spinach leaves are coated with lemon, olive oil and garlic. Are French fries the ultimate French food? They may have been, but their quality in bistros has declined so much over the years that their enduring popularity here in France is a mystery. I would walk across Paris for good frites — crispy on the outside, meltingly tender on the inside — but they are not so easily found.
There is another solution. Making your own fries is remarkably simple, and they are just as good as the delectable original. You need no special equipment to make French fries, just a sturdy pot, a strainer and paper towels. You chop the potatoes to the desired shape, rinse them and fry them — twice. The double frying is the secret to success. The problem with restaurant fries is that laziness has set in.
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Instead of using fresh potatoes, many chefs now stoop to frying up pre-cut frozen potatoes that often — horrors! The result is a soggy, tasteless mess. And although decent frozen fries that can be baked in the oven are available for the home chef, they bear no comparison to the real thing. But just how French are French fries? This is a matter of hot dispute on opposite sides of the French-Belgian border. The Belgians claim that pommes de terre frites are part of their national cultural heritage.
The story goes that, a couple centuries back, Belgian fishermen would deep-fry tiny fish they caught in the Meuse river, and when the river iced over in winter they would substitute potatoes cut into the shape of the tiny fish. The French scoff at this version of events, maintaining that frites first emerged in Paris and were sold on the streets in during the French Revolution.
Thomas Jefferson, who was ambassador to France around the time of the revolution, reputedly loved frites and brought the recipe back to the States.
They were also a hit with American GIs who came over to Europe during World War I and popularized French fried potatoes across the country when they came home. Frites crossed the Channel around the midth century, becoming part of the beloved British duo fish and chips. They could have simply taken them off the menu — but in fact they never stopped eating them.
The French like frites so much that sometimes they will buy an overflowing paper cone of them as a snack. Straight out of the fryer, crisp and salty, they were sinfully delicious. And for years, the frites served in restaurants were nearly as good.
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That time having passed, why not try making them at home? French fries marry well with many dishes on this site, among them all the omelets, mussels in white wine , petite friture small fried fish , roast chicken , lamb chops and all the steaks.
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They are not just vegetarian — they are vegan. So whatever kind of foodie you are, buy a bottle of cooking oil and some good potatoes, roll up your sleeves and set to work. Simple starters are having a moment in Paris, and today I am featuring one of my favorites, cucumbers in cream. And best of all for the everyday chef, it takes no more than five minutes to prepare. The trend toward simple starters began at Paris bistros a couple years back with the revival of another classic, oeufs durs mayonnaise hard-boiled eggs cut in half and bathed in sumptuous homemade mayo.
It gets star billing at Le Desnoyez, a terrific bistro in the Belleville district, and many other establishments with young, innovative chefs. This is good news. Once a menu standard, the dish had fallen in stature to the point of becoming inedible, with cafes serving up overcooked, rubbery eggs with commercial mayo squeezed out of a bottle. No respectable restaurant would serve it this way. Another popular simple starter is avocado toast, a relatively recent arrival in Paris.
Pola recently scratched oeuf dur mayonnaise from its menu in favor of a warm poached egg, but plans to restore it when summer arrives. How did this confusion arise?